Puhoi Tavern | IconThe Puhoi Tavern an iconic traveller's stop, on the edge of Auckland and the beginning of Northland. Founded by 83 Bohemian (German Czech) immigrants who arrived on the sailing ship The Warspirit in 1863, built this tavern out of the Kauri Forest that swamped all of Puhoi. They tore down 7 million feet of Kauri timber. TOP TIP Hire a kayak by the pub at high tide, paddle the winding river, get re collected from nearby Wenderholm and return to your bar stool at the Puhoi Tavern.
Northland
This section highlights places I spent time at and would gladly do so again.
Sullivan's Bay | Mahurangi WestRegional Park, Westside of the 2 fingers Peninsula. DoC tracks, sensational harbour views atop camp hillside across to Mita Bay. TOP TIP: Walk across at low tide to cutely named Pudding Island
Cement Works | Mahurangi RiverSwim across the freshwater lake to the trees and Manu away. Picnic spot too. These historic ruins can only be viewed outside the fence line due to crumbly concrete. Ironically they made the concrete. TOP TIP: Weekend cruise sailing boats ply this river. Cheap too.
Scandrett Bay | Mahurangi EastA quiet regional park gem without the crowds and out of the way rock fishing. Once a family farm till 1998. TOP TIP: Campervan atop the hill with fantastic views across the harbour. Or hire one of 2 beachside cottages (regional council).
Charlie's | MatakanaArguably top 5 stop on the Peninsula in summer. TOP TIP: Free garden games with your Rum n Raisin.
Tawharanui Regional Park An open sanctuary contained behind a hefty purpose built pest proof fence surrounds the entire Park. Hike the hills overlooking Kawau Island, mountain bike, surf the kilometres of beach and stay behind the sand dunes in the 100 site camp. TOP TIP: KIWI hunt...torch with red cellophane.
Omaha BeachRemuera on Sea. Posh palaces overlooking a beautifully curved beach. TOP TIP: Beach is so grand, you begin to ignore the housing blight behind. However Tawharanui beach has a more KIWI beach feel, next door.
Leigh Sawmill CafeNicely described as a Grand Funk style roadhouse (couldn't have said it better).It's a local institution since 1996. Cafe in day, music venue restaurant at night. Fine accommodation too.
Pakiri BeachFor 10km asphalt gives way to shingle. Steep safe drive in. Glorious beach on estuary. Horses gallop here. However today on arrival the camp is quiet, strangely due to the closure of Pakiri beach north end due to a Maori Rahui signage (closure). I leave too.
Te Ari PointHome to stunning golf course and spectacular surf beach. But you will need too shudder down the rutted road for 5-10 kms to seek paradise. There's even a Shirley Valentine Greek style beach enclave to enjoy on pebble sand.
Mangawhai HeadsClifftop track 200 (uphill of course), steps to discover a long return flatter pathway with exquisite viewpoints. (That's the payback). It's so high up here it's not unusual to spot schools of sharks, even whales. TOP TIP: Get dropped off inland to avoid the 200 platform staircase.
MaungatapereThis quaint village offers 3 distinct options.. a Cafe with manure plant neighbour (kid you, not)...a banana plantation run by a wonderfully energetic couple, even quirky....a motor museum which has a staggering array of historic vehicles. TOP TIP: Campervan the night at the Land of the Lotus
Whangarei BasinFriedenreich Regentag Dunkelbunt Hundertwasser known for his colourful ceramic artworks. They have built the biggest memorial to Hunderwasser directly over the cities basin. He passed away 1999. TOP TIP: View the quaintly designed roof garden. Free ceramic viewing at the Kawakawa public convenience.
Whangarei MarinaTe Matau A Pohe...Whangarei basins fish hook crafted bone bridge, now has a delightful turntable pod whilst watching the hook rise too outbound boats. TOP TIP: Whangarei is becoming the 'Wellington' of Northland with Hundertwasser, rolling clock, clock museum, fish hook bridge, quarry garden, whangarei falls, mountain scooters.
Warkworth | Space CentreSpace Centre | Warkworth South Massive pan built in the 70s to essentially beam coverage of the Christchurch 1974 Commonwealth Games worldwide. Now used to map the Milky way from 2024.
MatakanaA true religious experience. Matakanas heavenly ablutions. TOP TIP: Hold till the afternoon sun, but if you gotta go, you gotta go.
Matakana Country ParkQuirky rural park, but missing the Matakana Market style crowds. Interesting, but tired.
Goat IslandCelebrated fish sanctuary. No rods please. Adorn yourself with goggles, snorkels and fins, walk in backwards and immerse yourself into this quite stunning fishbowl with Island. The fish seem to understand they're in a safe zone. How come? TOP TIP: Jump aboard the glass bottom boat in summer or hire the bottomless kayaks.
Urititi Beach and Golf CafeThis beach has a naturist section, beach camp and sea view café at the neighbouring golf course. TOP TIP: Waipu Caves 10km.
Whangarei FallsAs you head out towards Tutukaka Peninsula drop into watch the thunderous falls (best after rain). Nature has crafted a curtain fall.
NgunguruFamous for the lengthy sandspit. You'll need a kayak. This sandspit flows in from a separate Peninsula but follows the Ngunguru coastline. Now a protected area due to sacred sites.
Helena Bay GalleryYou'll be greeted by mountainous Newfoundland dogs at this outside gallery. Safe, but they don't realize they are the Jonah Lomas (respect) of the doggie world. 150 local artists display sometimes hugely eclectic art pieces. TOP TIP: Call in to break up the twisty turny drive after SH1.
WaitangiThe Birthplace of the Nation...The Treaty Grounds where NZs history was shaped through the signing of The Declaration of Independence in 1835 and Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. 5th February William Hobson arrived on behalf British Government to make a Treaty with Maori.
Waimate NorthA heritage site. NZs second oldest surviving building, established as a model farming village.
HorekeRight on the Hokianga Harbour, being the starting or ending point of the Twin Coast Trail. TOP TIP: Visit to view the beginning stages of the Hokianga.
Wairere BouldersHike the valley to discover the single most monstrous Boulder in Northland pitched atop a headland. TOP TIP: Stay and walk the valley of monster boulders.
KaeoThe birthplace of one Christian order, the Wesley Mission in 1822, but removed by Maori in 1827. Unique pyramid sculpture still stands. TOP TIP: Stop in for a coffee at Donna's Mad Hatters Cafe resplendent with massive beach chair.
AwanuiA slowly revitalising township at the junction to the Cape. TOP TIP: View the massive kauri tree trunk with a handmade stairway 1km north of township.
Waipoua ForrestTane Mahuta...Lord of the Forest. God of the Forest. Biggest living Kauri Tree worldwide. 1500-2000 years old. TOP TIP: 5 minute walk in. Don't ignore wardens who ensures protocol followed at entrance.
Trounsons Kauri ParkDonnelly Crossing Trounsons Kauri Park...An isolated 500 hectare reserve of impressive stand of Kauri. TOP TIP: Bring torch with red cellophane taped. Approach boardwalk after 10pm to hear and potentially see living KIWI birds.
Whangarei | Mt ManaiaOh it's only a few steps to reach the craggy peak...1000 built steps. Mangawhai Heads was 200. Gym stair climbers unite.
Whangarei | Parnassus PointWhat's down the end of this road? An exquisite view down the channel and tranquil rock fishing haven. Views across too Marsden Point.
Whangarei Heads | PatauaAn offshoot to the Heads drive is this authentic Bach dwelling enclave built over a superb estuary with a walk bridge joining the north and south communities of same name. Bridge 2 minutes, drive 45.
Kowharewa BayEdge of the Tutukaka Harbour, a most delightful sheltered bay. Used by locals, the passing sailing community and a handful of vehicle campers.
Tutukaka MarinaAbove the marina, hillside, is the walkway too the lighthouse. Plenty of stairs. Plus the safe zone for tsunami. Marlin seems on the menu here. On the public notice board of whangeri Deep Sea Anglers Club on 1 day they'd hauled out 25 landed Marlin. Boats on the board show an insight to humor...Tossa, Anger Management and Insalt.
Matapouri BeachAnother protected curved beach of note with 2 promenades holding out rough northerlies and southerlies. TOP TIP: Don't pee in our pool as we don't swim in your toilet. Sadly the Famous ocean rockpools have been officially closed simply because folk used these summer spas as a pool bathroom. Yuck.
Whale BayNot one to be seen, but no doubt one of this peninsulas hottest addresses. At times you can have this beach as your very own.
Woolley BayOn a stormy day the suction of water through the split rock on the beachfront is quite the display.
Hikurangi-Waro RocksFamous for best public rubbish bins on street and the spectacular limestone rock collection sitting one atop another. Just outside the township lies Waro Limestones. Formed 25m years ago, uplifted 5m years stunning twisted stones adorn a small mound.
Teal BayYou can judge alot about the strength of a community by their letterboxes. Creative. Quirky. Gold.
Whangaruru SouthDolphin photographed and displayed at the very spot he/she jumped in the bay. Why not?
Bland BayA crescent Bay protected oceanside by rocky islands. Stunning Bayside.Camp along a long grassy promenade. Top Tip...bring kayaks, rods.
Whangaruru NorthDirectly opposite the South camp. 10 minutes by boat, 45 minutes by road. DoC run site. Bush Beach walks. Paddle boarding etc.
Russell | Flagstaff HillFlagstaff...Russell the original Capital of NZ. Hone Heke, loaded Maori Chief angered by loss of control by local Iwi, chopped down this flagstaff in 1844. 4 times thereafter. Current version remains since 1858 TOP TIP: Sensational vista over harbour and beyond. Steep path. Maybe drive.
Hururu FallsWalk from Paihia to these normally boisterous falls. Better in winter. Area felt tired, sadly.
KerikeriTe Reo Welcome...A delightful kinetic sculpture now adorns the entrance to Kerikeri township. Made of 120 suspended boulders. TOP TIP: Try lying underneath...I couldn't.
Waipapa | Rainbow FallsWalk the river trails, 5km each way to the historic Stonehouse Basin. TOP TIP: Interesting rock walls halfway.
Ohaewai NgawaThe Battle....of Ohaewai in 1845 fought on this fortified PA site where St Michael's church now resides since 1871
Ngawha SpringsThe Springs...Enjoys a long history for Maori as 'The Healing Place' with hot bubbling muddy waters from the earth's core. Now a public spring.
Okaihau | The Rail Stay1st Class boutique railway carriage accommodation for those enjoying the Twin Coast Cycle Trail. The trail runs from Opua to the Horeke on the Hokianga Harbour. You can stay 1st class with accompanying site tiny dog, or stay in the Bruce or Earle carriages. Campervan parking too. TOP TIP: Last or 1st stay on this trail.
Mangungu MissionThe Mission...located high up on the hill with stunning views down the Hokianga Harbour to its source. TOP TIP: This site housed the biggest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi with Chiefs from around all of Northland. Bigger than Waitangi signing.
Kauri Cliffs | Have Putter!Condé Nast listed this exclusive golfing resort site with a Gold star. I brought my best putter. Let me in.
Matauri Bay | Rainbow WarriorRainbow Warrior Memorial... home to the final resting spot of the 1985 bombed Greenpeace ship, the Rainbow Warrior. TOP TIP: Scale the steep hill to view poignant sculpture over the scuttled ship.
Matauri BeachA beach of haves and have-nots...land issues bubble here. TOP TIP: One of NZs Top beaches with seaside campsites.
Mahinepua Peninsula Stairclimbers will love this Walk to the Peninsula Trig and Motuekaiti and Motueka Islands. TOP TIP: Camp beachside at this Iwi run campsite.
Tauranga BayOne of the longest promenade of fishing folk in campervans. Sensational spot. TOP TIP: Avoid the Fairy Terns home at end of spit. Give them space.
Whangaraoa| St Paul's RockA truly significant landmark towers over this drowned valley, known better as Whangaparaoa Harbour. Easy hill Walk, till last 25 meters, then chain link to very top. TOP TIP: Must do including scrambling up the chain link. Views out of this world.
Totara NorthTe Mama Art...Spectacular wall art at the Te Mama museum. A self funded museum of significance to rival Te Papa they suggest. Many local industrial relics around the ship building industry which once was the very largest in Australasia.
HihiThe Whaling Museum...on the ocean side of Doubtless Bay, hence the whales.A substantial residence and museum and gardens built on an original PA site. TOP TIP: Book in advance. Not open publicly.
Oruatai | Olive GrovesImpressive hillsides of groves overlooking Paewhenua Island, home to Dancing Petrel Vineyard and Mangonui Harbour.
MangonuiHome to Northlands most famous 'fush n chups' (also Ahipara). TOP TIP: Worth a detour. Quaint seaside shopping village. View Robot at Thai Restaurant.
Coopers BeachWhen a beach becomes too popular. SH runs through this once quiet village. TOP TIP: Feel less suburbia on lengthy beach and atop Taumarumuru Scenic Reserve above the beaches
Taipa Sailing Canoe BridgeA delightful entranceway. Apparently one of Kupes landing spots. (Polynesian historic explorer. Folklore)
Lake Ohia | Coca Cola Lake (Rotopokaka)...Fancy swimming in water consistent to this famous drink. Fresh water Lake on edge of Sandhills of Tokerau Beach. Formed by red brown peat TOP TIP: Safe swimming, drinkable, healing properties.
Tokerau BeachRamp Road...One of Northlands Top freedom camping destinations. Huge park grounds on sanddunes, grassed.
Rangiputa BeachKarikari Peninsula...sheltered oceanside entrance too Rangaunu Harbour. Closest looking spot to an authentic Fijian beachfront. White, white sand. TOP TIP: Swim alongside Ray's who sweep this beach.
Karikari EstatesCarrington Golf and Vineyard Rated as plush and posh with manicured golf course and on the hill sumptuous vineyard restaurant TOP TIP: Bring credit cards
Matai BayA Horseshoe curved bay protected from the open ocean with DoC camp hillside. TOP TIP: Best camp is the top camp.
WaipapakauriThe entrance way to Cape Reinga. 100km drive too the top of this isthmus. TOP TIP: Must do at least once. Stops included Buried Forest, Houhora Harbour, Giant Sandhills, The lighthouse. In-between is simply road.
Waipapakauri RampThe Karo Tree...the official southern entrance of SH1 to 90 mile Beach. Can feel Luke a motorway in weekends. TOP TIP: Gorgeous soul running the Karo Tree ice cream caravan at beach entrance. Soft serve on a summers day. Perfect.
AwanuiA slowly revitalising township at the junction to the Cape. TOP TIP: View the massive kauri tree trunk with a handmade stairway 1km north of township.
Kaitaia RuralHome to NZs grandest solar farm. It goes for miles. TOP TIP: Drive the shingle road behind SH from Awanui to Kaitaia. OK bumpy but a different aspect.
Ahipara BeachMost southern aspect of 90 Mile Beach. Home to the longest surf break. Launch correctly and 5 minutes later you're still surfing same wave. TOP TIP: Stay the night at the furthered Iwi Farm camp, surf, sandbar dunes, see wild horses on beach.
Ahipara SandhillsWalk from camp or drive the edge of the beach to the famous Ahipara Sandhills. Equivalent to Dunes at Cape Reinga and Omapere. TOP TIP: Bring boogie board.
Ahipara to KohokohuThe backroad to the Hokianga. Brilliant road with nice sweeping roads till the halfway township of Broadwood with Yellow Dairy. But will return to a nice drive soon after the hills beyond Broadwood.
KohokohuSeaside township with future promise on the opposing shore to Rawene. Home of the vehicular ferry across the Hokianga. TOP TIP: NZs oldest bridge resides here. Was excited. But alas poorly maintained presentation. Quite disappointed.
RaweneVibrant, bustling Hokianga harbour township. Ferry to Kohokohu. TOP TIP: Outside waterside Cafe at the Boatshed Cafe and nearby Mangrove Boardwalk.
OpononiThe touristy township at the entrance to the Hokianga Harbour, made famous by Opo the Dolphin in 1955. TOP TIP: isit Opos grave next to Opononi War Memorial Hall where she was given full Maori honors.
Omapere | Hokianga HeadsSpectacular views over the entrance to the Hokianga, including facing the giant Sandhills. Kupes first landing spot in NZ (legendary Polynesian Explorer, folklore) TOP TIP: Ferry in summer to sanddunes
Waipaua Forest | Tane MahutaTane Mahuta...Lord of the Forest. God of the Forest. Biggest living Kauri Tree worldwide. 1500-2000 years old. TOP TIP: 5 minute walk in. Don't ignore wardens who ensures protocol followed at entrance.
Kai Iwi Lakes3 Basin type dune lakes. The largest lake on the Taharoa Domsins runs 8km in circumference. A popular walk. TOP TIP: Best camp at Pine Beach.
The Nice Thing About Living In A Small Town Is That When You Don’t Know What You’re Doing, Someone Else Does!!!
Contact
Phone: 022 601 4158
Email: dave_lewis@xtra.co.nz
